Hola guapa

I have now been a resident of Vina del Mar for 2 weeks.  Woah.   Two weeks of being oriented; of meeting my new family, family friends,  extended family, extended family's friends, friend's friends, uncle's nephew's cousin's girlfriend....and so on;  of sitting in the midst of a crowd of Chileans, all yelling accros the table to eachother; of late nights, and even later nights; and of complete, unbelievable exhaustion.  

First, my family.  They are amazing; so perfectly matched to me that I wonder how CIEE (my study abroad program) managed it.  My host mom is Rosemarie, a 40-something woman who does yoga, smiles a lot and loves her family.  From the moment I met them she made me feel welcome and like a part of the family.  They gave me a family tree that had my name on one of its branches, and this morning over breakfast she told me that when she got the letter from CIEE that described me and had my picture, she burst into tears.  She called me the daughter she never had.  

I also have three brothers.  My two little brothers are Antonio (7) and Renato (6).  It's taken a bit, but they are warming up to me, and I to them.  Yesterday when I got back from class Antonio ran into the kitchen and gave me a big hug around my legs.  So, so cute.  They scream a lot and throw a lot of fits, but overall are super cute and sweet.  My other brother is Nicolas (Nico).  He's 21, vegeterian, Taoist, studies precussion (specifically latin american drumming), has dreads, and is super cool.  He's been great about taking me out, introducing me to his friends, and showing me around the city.  On top of my family, my house always seems to have other people in it.  Someone named Claudio, who I think is Rosemarie's exhusband's brother.  Why he's here, I haven't figured out yet.  Random friends and family, all who remain nameless yet familiar faces.

One aspect of Chilean life that has taken some getting used to is the lateness:  everything, EVERYTHING, is late, both on purpose and otherwise.  First, they arrive late: my drawing prof arrived 45 minutes late to class, rosemarie will tell our nana (maid) that she'll be home in 30 minutes, but won't get home for1.5 hours.  Nico told me its an thing of Chilean pride and also an assertion of power.  Higher-up types can be late, those beneath them cannot.  Second, their daily schedules are later than ours, shifted a few hours.  Lunch is at 2 or 3.  La once (ohn-say; tea and sandwiches) is at 8, and dinner (if it happens at all) is at 9 or 10.  Bars don't fill up until 12 or 1 am, and dancing doesn't start until 1 or 2.  People are often out until 5 or 6, and they somehow manage to do this day after day!!!   Last friday I made an attempt at this lifestyle, going out to a huge discotheque called El Huevo (the egg...why?  who knows.)   until 4, and the next day going to a bar and a party until 5.  Very nearly killed me.  By sunday I had to revert to full-on gringa, napping and going to bed early.  

I'm also begining to adjust to the piropos (cat calls/whistles).  They're not excessive, but can be a bit wearying and unnerving, especially late at night.  I've decided to adopt the Latin American perspective and to take them as a form of flattery.  And how can you help but smile when walking down the street someone mutters, "Hermosa, cuatro hermositas," "Hola guapa," or "Bella, bella, bellisima!"